Delhi to Goa on a train with three dogs and a baby: How we did it
Chaos in a cabin: our 55th long-distance family trip on the Indian Railways
Travelling with three indie dogs and a nine-month-old who moves at the speed of lightning is a daunting task. Throwing a pandemic into this composition takes planning and preparation to another level.
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I have been mostly homebound for the last two years; a complicated pregnancy made sure I travelled the bare minimum. For months, I’d been looking forward to our November trip to Goa, to escape the smog of Delhi at the onset of winter, and to have a sense of the outdoors and nature as a family of six. The lockdown came heavily down on my shoulders and spirit.

First, the train booking
All our journeys depend on the Indian Railways. Early on in our travels, we realised that our dog Tigress gets extremely car-sick. Besides, while Air India allows pets, it is expensive to fly three dogs, and we wouldn't feel comfortable about their safety. So, I was ecstatic when the Indian Railways started to reopen routes. I spent days on the IRCTC website, checking the list for a Rajdhani train from New Delhi to Madgaon. One is allowed to travel with pets only in First Class, so I booked my tickets and prayed to all the travel gods for an empty two-berth coupe or four-berth cabin. As for tickets for the dogs, there is no provision yet on the IRCTC website; one must book them at the railway station’s Parcel Office before boarding.
Next, packing
We’ve taken 54 train journeys in India with the dogs but this time, the preparation took weeks. From packing multiple bottles of surface disinfectants, the electric kettle to make baby food on the go, a NutriBullet for smoothies, bedsheets, pillows, dog blankets, playing cards, wipes, sanitisers, food and snacks to last us for days, multiple books downloaded on Kindle and a stash of medicines for the baby, dogs and us. We were as overcharged as one can possibly be.
Transport check
Two days before our departure, we wrote a letter to the Chief Commercial Officer - Reservation, to get that coveted First Class coupe so we wouldn’t have to share the space. There is no email address available as yet; one has to physically submit this letter to the concerned officer, and wait until the reservation charts are out four hours before departure.

On D-Day, we called our local taxi to drop us off at New Delhi railway station. We had been allotted a coupe, and headed to get booking slips for the dogs.
Booking pets
Booking the dogs at the Parcel Office is a swift process. One needs to have confirmed tickets to a coupe or cabin, and a photocopy of one’s identity card. It costs a few hundred rupees, depending on the length of the journey. One is generally allowed two pets in a coupe, and more in a cabin. There was no mandatory requirement to get the Covid test or any mobile app. We screened our luggage and set off for our coupe.

With luggage, three dogs and a baby in tow, we were definitely a sight to behold. The station was comparatively less crowded and our train seemed empty. Having dogs made social distancing much easier: no coolie approached us, vendors and the lone first-class attendant maintained a distance and even a ticket checker saw our IDs from an arm's length.
Sanitise, sanitise, sanitise
With only one other passenger travelling in First Class, we swapped our tiny coupe for a cabin. Before the baby and the dogs entered, I sprayed the cabin’s surface with disinfectant and spread out our sheets. Our biggest challenge was controlling the baby from touching windows, seats and throwing things on the floor! We made sure everything within Marius’s range was wiped, sprayed and cleaned.
The good thing about travelling First Class, and that too on an almost empty train, was that we didn't have to see anyone till Madgaon. The train’s catering service was suspended but the pantry was still serving tea, coffee, water bottles and ready-to-eat meals from Maggi cup noodles to Haldiram’s rajma-rice and chole-chawal.

Plot bathroom breaks
Even before the pandemic, the less one visits the restrooms of the Indian Railways, the better. But now, with the COVID-19 paranoia, it became the most dreaded part of our journey. It helped that the First Class and Second Class AC were empty as there was no one else using the restroom. Even so, we went in armed on every visit, with a bag full of surface sanitiser (we use Dettol), toilet paper and hand sanitiser (we use Himalayan), and sprayed everything before we could touch it.
Once settled in, the swaying of the train soon rocked all of us into deep slumber, and we woke up with a sudden jolt at Jhansi station, the first five-minute break for the dogs to relieve themselves. We usually prepare a list of stops with the duration of halt beforehand, and double-check it with the guard once we are on the train.

We descended on an empty platform for a bit of stretch. The dogs did their business on a patch of grass, while a lone fruit vendor ran towards us with a basket. Clearly, times were hard as many stations didn’t have the usual buzz of tea stalls and newspaper stands. Our train took a detour and was running late, but for a change, I did not fuss, stress or curse as I was just glad to be out and about. I enjoyed the changing scenery and the home-cooked parathas my mother had packed, with a dog curled at my feet and an excited baby in my arms.

We arrived six hours late but in good spirits at Madgaon station, which was sparsely crowded. Our driver had been tracking our train’s movement and was impatiently waiting at the station to take us to our Airbnb. (Driver Xavier Barretto is based in Madgaon and is totally pet-friendly; 9823169966.) A few minutes into the car journey to Saligao, the cool breeze, swaying palms and the twilight sky made the 32-hour journey with three furry tails and a baby totally worth it.
Quick tips for travelling with pets on the Indian Railways
Start with short travels, perhaps of a few hours or an overnight train journey, to get your pet used to it.
Preferably choose a train that originates from the station of boarding.
Double-leash your dog on the first few travels as there is a lot of noise, people and movement at a station that might make your pet anxious. There is no need to take the dog to the parcel office at the time of booking.
Make sure your pet is hydrated and carry home-cooked meals or kibble, but always have extra food in case of delays. A bag full of chews (we use Canine Craving and Canine India) helps keep them engaged.
Get a fit-to-travel certificate from the vet, as well as basic medicines for the trip.
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